osteria

After Positano I headed back to Naples for an afternoon before catching a cheapo flight to Sicily. And all I did in Naples was head back to Osteria Donna Teresa, where for 10 euros including wine I had the best meal I've had so far, as well as the cheapest. The first time it was a rice salad with tuna, tomatoes, and olives, followed by a plate full of incredibly fresh sardines in some kind of citrus broth, with barely cooked carrots as a contorno, and an apple as a last course. Except for the fish, everything was from their farm, including the best wine I've had so far. When I went back I had fresh pasta alla norma, but with provolone instead of the usual (I think) ricotta, followed by these veal meatballs with roasted peppers (skin left on, not burnt off), and an orange so fresh it made my lips numb.

There was some pizza there, too, and it was good. Better than any other pizza I've ever had, sure. But it didn't measure up. So. If you end up in Naples, go to Osteria Donna Teresa: via Kerbaker 58, 13-16 & 20-23, 081.5567070; closed Sunday; cash only. Don't expect a menu.